Road Tripping: Yamba to Bermagui

We’re just back from a road trip down the South Coast of NSW after closing our beloved store. We needed some time to decompress and have time together, and it was the perfect way to unwind, relax, and re-energise. Along the way, we caught up with family and friends. At other times, we stayed independently in beautifully renovated motels or small apartments to prepare home-cooked meals. If you haven’t ventured on a road trip for a while, we’d highly recommend it.

Here’s a rundown of our trip, which we hope will inspire you to hit the road sometime soon. The first instalment is Road Tripping: Yamba to Bermagui

Yamba to Mudgee

Our first leg saw us take the inland route as we delivered an order to a friend in Glen Innes. I love how the scenery and terrain change along the way. As you wind up the mountain pass, you will see rainforests, open plains, and the high country flora. The air seems brighter and crisper somehow.
After making our delivery, we headed to Uralla for lunch. Here, we tried the Bolt Inn, as we’d been told the pub had been renovated and that the food was good. We weren’t disappointed; the menu was interesting, and the atmosphere was relaxed, as expected from a country pub. We tried the salt and pepper squid, the local tomato salad with fennel, anchovies and burrata, and their classic beef burger. I enjoyed a crisp glass of rosé, and Scotty ordered a beer.

We also visited the local butcher, Dale’s Downtown Meats, on a friend’s recommendation. We selected a butterflied leg of lamb—a great choice for the barbeque as its even thickness allows it to cook quickly and evenly—along with some tasty sausages.
We got back in the car and decided Mudgee would be a good destination for our first night. We drove through the country roads, where the scenery was interesting and ever-changing. We hadn’t planned where to stay, so I Googled some options and came across The Clairfield, a newly renovated boutique hotel in a central location. It had good facilities, including an on-site restaurant and a pool, and the rooms were nicely appointed with thoughtful touches, including good quality coffee and tea in the rooms and home-baked biscuits (always a winning touch with me). It was a very comfortable room and a great place to rest our weary heads after a long day in the car.

Photo credit: The Clairefield HotelThe following day, we went for a walk to get a feel for the town and found our way to the walking path along the creek. The local park features artistic sculptures, and Mudgee has an interesting selection of shops and eateries.

Mudgee to Moss Vale

We called into Moss Vale to visit the family for a couple of nights. We stopped for lunch along the way at Matt Moran’s country pub, The Rockley, in the quaint hamlet of Rockley near Bathurst. Here, you’ll find a friendly country pub with elevated dining options. The dining room is classically decorated with bentwood chairs and local art hanging on the walls. The menu had interesting options, including ricotta-stuffed zucchini flowers drizzled with local honey. These were coated in a very light and crisp batter and were delicious! I tried the house-smoked salmon with classic horseradish cream and sorrel leaves, which was generous and tasty. However, I should have ordered a side salad to go with it. Scotty ordered the Caesar salad, which he said was very good. You can tell that care and attention go into the food here, and it’s refreshing to have these menu options in a country pub.

Once again, the scenery makes it worthwhile to get off the main motorways and explore the country roads instead. Scott is a very keen motorcyclist, so he’s always looking for the twisting roads through beautiful countryside and has developed a repertoire of routes that fit the bill.

In Moss Vale, we stayed with family and had a barbeque for dinner. We cooked the butterflied leg of lamb and sausages on the barbeque. The lamb takes around 30 minutes to cook to medium rare/medium, which is not long at all, and the meat slices well and is tasty and tender when cooked this way. We accompanied the meat with crispy smashed potatoes, barbequed broccolini, and a garden salad. For dessert, we enjoyed a delicious raspberry ripple cheesecake (my father-in-law’s choice) picked up from a local caterer, Bendooley Estate Larder (they have a storefront in Bowral).

We picked up a good coffee at Flour Bar on the way out of Moss Vale. We could have chosen a pastry or two; they are made on-site, but Scott is taking stock of his health, so we’re watching what we eat. We didn’t venture out much in Moss Vale, but there are lovely shops to browse and good eateries in the village or nearby Bowral.

Moss Vale to Pebbly Beach

After breakfast, we set off and wound our way through the pass that leads into Kangaroo Valley and onto Nowra and the coast road. The mist was thick as we drove through Robertson, reducing visibility and speed to very low, but this lifted once we reached the valley. Kangaroo Valley was busy with weekend activity, so we didn’t stop; instead, we continued to our next destination, Pebbly Beach.

We stayed at Pebbly Beach Escape, a small enclave of cabins on the cliff overlooking Pebbly Beach. What a stunning location, enveloped by a national park on one side and the ocean on the other; this was a perfect spot to stay for a few days. The accommodation was excellent and stylishly appointed, and there’s plenty of wildlife around; Pebbly Beach is known for the kangaroos that call the beach home, dolphins riding the waves, and a variety of curious birds, including kookaburras and lorikeets, visited our deck.

We did beach walks and swims and drove to Batemans Bay for supplies and dinner at The Punt House, which overlooks the Clyde River. It’s a lovely dining experience with a great view, tasty food, and attentive service.

Pebbly Beach to Bermagui

It was hard to pack up and leave Pebbly Beach, as it’s such a relaxing and beautiful place, but onwards we must go. Our next stop is Bermagui, another picturesque coastal town on the NSW South Coast. On the way, we passed through the small village of Mogo; we’d heard about a kitchen shop that people said was as well stocked as Kitchen to Table, so we stopped in to check it out. If you’re in Mogo and you need kitchenware or a gift, there’s a good chance you’ll find what you’re looking for at In & Out at Mogo.

As we were taking our time, we ventured off the main road into Tuross Head for a look, then stopped for a picnic lunch at Narooma. As you come into Narooma, the view opens up across the water, which is really beautiful. We put together a salad of rocket, feta, olives, julienned carrot, tomatoes, roasted pumpkin, boiled eggs and leftover pork and fennel sausage (one by Salumi Australia, a boutique small-goods manufacturer located in Billinudgel, northern NSW). We’d usually opt for a cafe, but we were trying to eat as healthily as possible, so we kept our car fridge stocked with ingredients to put a delicious salad together.

After lunch, we drove through Tilba Tilba and were gobsmacked by the lush rolling hills and pretty countryside. Gosh, this is a beautiful part of Australia.

We stayed at the Bermagui Beach Hotel in one of their motel rooms adjacent to the pub. The room was spacious, clean, stylishly decorated, and had a view of the ocean. It had a kitchenette, and the breakfast provisions included delicious croissants from the popular local artisan sourdough bakery Honorbread. Even though we’re trying to eat as healthily as possible, we still love good quality food, so we couldn’t pass these up. We stopped by the bakery one morning, and the variety of breads and pastries was impressive! So much so that we wanted to order one of everything! But, sticking with healthier options, we picked up a packet of their seed crackers and a wedge of Tilba cheese, which came in handy over the coming days for light lunches and snacks.

The Bermagui Beach Hotel is an excellent option for dinner; we ate there both nights, but be sure to make a reservation as it’s very popular. On both nights, I ordered the local tuna, which was perfectly grilled and served with kipfler potatoes, a tasty tomato and caper sauce and aioli. Scotty ordered the grilled kangaroo fillet with baba ganoush, chimichurri and tabouli. The chef apparently hails from a hatted Sydney restaurant, so the food is very well prepared and presented, but very approachable and, most importantly, delicious.

One of our highlights in Bermagui was the Bermagui Blue Pool, a 50 metre-long ocean-fed rock pool. New South Wales is fortunate to have more than 100 ocean-fed rock pools along its coast, but this would have to be one of the most spectacular. The day we visited, the seas were full and the whitewash surged in, causing swimmers to squeal with glee and excitement. In the next bay, seals frolicked in the ocean without a care in the world.

Sculpture Bermagui, an annual exhibition, was being set up during our stay. A band of dedicated volunteers was creating a fantastic community event designed to showcase the natural beauty of Bermagui and the work of local artists. It’s a must-see if you happen to be in town when it’s on.

After a morning swim at the Blue Pool, we called into Gulaga Wholefoods for a mid-morning snack—I had a coffee, and Scotty ordered a deliciously healthy smoothie. The shop is stocked with various whole foods, natural products, and wholesome homemade cakes and slices. Its corner location is a great spot to take five and watch the goings-on.

There are lots of interesting retail stores to browse. We called into the Bermagui Surf Shop for some goggles and T-shirts. Also, Drift & Fossick stocks stylish wares and locally made items.

On our last day in Bermagui, we ventured to Camel Rock, an ancient rock formation located on the northern end of Camel Rock Surf Beach. You can drive in and view it from the viewing platform or walk down onto the beach. We also took the walking track at the back of the viewing platform that leads you along the coast to Murunna Point. There’s a gentle incline at first, but then you walk along the cliff top with viewing platforms to take in the view and catch your breath. Be sure to look out for Horse Head Rock, another interesting and ancient rock formation.

To be continued…Next stop, Merimbula